( 3 reviews )
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Posted: 10-05-2008
First ascent is a film that shows a lot of great climbing. From Dean Potters FA of The Tombstone in Utah to DWS in Thailand and a gripping account of the Cobra Crack's first ascent (8c+). I must also say that a few scenes in the film are a waste of time and are probably included in an attempt to add humour (i.e. "Human Ape", an idea to sell a urban climbing concept to Hollywood). In contrast a few other recent climbing films, First Ascent appears "homemade" in the sense that sometimes the director cheers for the climbers and comments on the climbing. This does no diminish the quality of the film, rather it makes it more real as if it's just a bunch of friends out climbing together. All in all I recommend this movie - the Cobra Crack account alone is worth the film in it self.
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Posted: 09-29-2008
A totally inspiring film for trad climbers. Compelling storyline, nice pace, gets a little slow in the middle (with one not-so-inspiring and one comic sequence), then picks right back up again. What's really cool is also how the director captured the essence of / personallity of the climbers. I have had the good fortune of attending a trad-climbing clinic run by Cedar Wright (one of the featured climbers) at the 07 Petzl Roc Trip and after sharing a car trip with Cedar as well as half a day of his teachings, I feel like he is pretty much the guy you see in this video; he's able to be so much better than the rest of us at this sport yet stay totally approacheable, psyched about his climbing, easy going but sets goals and works hard to get there. On a personal level, after having seen how the climbers in this video commit to moves after having placed their gears, and then not worry about falling and just concentrate on the moves, I have actually improved my mental side through emulation; and sure enough, the added focus just makes for a better climbing experience; net net: worrying less = less falling and therefore I am actually a safer climber than when I fussed more.
